FAQ

Radiant heating involves heating a mass directly rather than the ambient air. The concept of radiant heating can be illustrated by a stone that is heated by the sun. The stone absorbs the heat from the sun’s rays and when you put your hand close to it you can feel the heat radiating from it and being redistributed into the environment.

The feeling of comfort from radiant heating is far superior to conventional heating methods such as baseboards, wall radiators or hot air systems. Radiant heating guarantees comfort by keeping feet warm; it also delivers substantial energy savings.

True Comfort cable can be installed on a wide variety of subfloors, including plywood, smooth concrete, cementitious panels, ceramic tiles, uncoupling membranes, acoustic membranes, crack-bridging membranes, pre-coated mesh, and mortar beds.

Please refer to the Heating Cable Compatibility table on the specifications of the product for more information on compatible subfloors.

True Comfort cable is compatible with a wide variety of floor coverings, including ceramic, natural stone, engineered wood, vinyl, floating floor, linoleum, parquet, and carpet.

For coverings other than ceramic or natural stone, check with the manufacturer to determine the product’s compatibility with floor heating systems.

True Comfort doesn’t recommend installing heating cables under hardwood or cork.

For more information, consult the flooring Heating Cable Compatibility Table.

If installed on smooth concrete, the concrete slab should be insulated to prevent heat loss and maximize the benefits of radiant floor heating.

If only a section of the concrete slab is to be heated, and that section is less than 50 ft², we strongly suggest that you insulate the surface of the concrete slab before installing the cable or membrane to limit additional heat loss at the perimeter of the room.

There are a variety of products available on the market for creating thermal barriers. Our Customer Service will be happy to advise you.

The cost varies from one installation to another. It depends on several factors, including the local electricity rate (KwH), the heat loss and insulation of the room, the level of comfort desired by the occupant and the duration of the heating period. A radiant floor heating system can yield energy savings compared with other conventional heating methods.

Radiant floor heating can act as the main source of heat in a room. Many factors play a part, including the insulation level of the subfloor, the size of the room, the exposure of the outside walls, the fenestration, the level of comfort required, and the power emitted by the system.

Please contact Customer Service for more information on the options available for your project.

First, an old myth needs to be debunked. It doesn’t cost any more to use 120 volts or 240 volts to heat a floor. Both voltages can supply the power needed for heating. Power is measured in watts, and it is the unit of measurement for which a customer is billed.

The choice of voltage will depend mainly on two factors: the size of the room to be heated and the availability of the electrical circuit.

In the first case, if the space to be heated is larger than 150 ft², the purchase of equipment will be less costly by opting for a 240-volt supply voltage because of the 15-ampere current limit for thermostats.

In the second case, depending on the configuration of the premises, it may be easier to use one voltage rather than another, for instance by connecting to an existing electrical circuit, if it is dedicated to heating and that the current strength of the circuit allows it. We strongly recommend that you contact an electrician to properly assess the possibilities before making your purchase: heating cables must be connected to the voltage for which they are manufactured.

True Comfort heating cables are available in 120 or 240 volts.

True Comfort floor heating systems come with detailed installation instructions. You can easily do the installation yourself by following the guide and the installation video or hire the services of a tiler, electrician, handyman, etc. You must ensure that the installation complies with the appropriate electrical code for your area.

Where required by law, the system should be connected by a qualified person.

Never! The cable is manufactured at the factor to very strict quality standardsto preserve its integrity and ensure a long product life. The cable is calibrated at the factory to meet the heating requirements of a floor of a specific size. Cutting it will render it unusable and void the warranty. Under no circumstances should two cables be spliced.

True Comfort cables are fixed to the floor using two exclusive methods: either with True Comfort Cable Spacers or by inserting them into an uncoupling membrane. Their design facilitates cable installation and ensures uniform spacing depending on the installation method chosen.

Never! This would invalidate the warranty. Always use True Comfort Cable Spacers or an uncoupling membrane.

True Comfort sells a Repair Kit. Please contact Customer Service for more information.

Yes, it is approved for installation in a conservatory or solarium. Depending on the insulation of your solarium, the heat lost through the windows and your geographic location, a supplementary heating system may be advisable to ensure greater comfort during peak winter periods.

Yes, our cables are manufactured according to very strict quality procedures and meet the CSA standard for installation in a damp environment. A separate cable from the one covering the bathroom floor must be used in the shower.

The drying time (curing time) varies from one product to another. Self-leveling cements and undercoats take time (up to 28 days) to reach their expected physical properties. Consult the product supplier or manufacturer for a recommendation.

Do not accelerate the drying process by heating the floor: the consequences would be detrimental to the final quality of the hardened product.

The time required to install the floor covering after leveling is dictated by the products used for leveling. Three to 24 hours drying time are generally required. Check with your cement-glue or self-leveling underlayment supplier or manufacturer.

Yes, it can. Check with the floor covering manufacturer to make sure the product is compatible with radiant floors. The cable must be installed with alternating spacing. Moreover, the temperature sensor must be installed between the cable runs that are closest together. Cover the cable and uncoupling membrane with ½ in. of self-leveling cementitious underlay above the highest point of the uncoupling membrane.

Yes, it can. For tiles, apply a thickness of between ¼ in. and ½ in. above the highest point of the uncoupling membrane. For flexible or wood flooring, allow for a thickness of ½ in. of cementitious self-leveling underlay above the highest point of the uncoupling membrane. Note that in the latter case, the cable must be installed with alternate spacing, and the temperature sensor must be installed between the closest cable runs.

No. An uncoupling membrane is not an effective thermal barrier.

The uncoupling membrane is bonded to the subfloor with thin-set mortar, regardless of the manufacturer. However, the thin-set mortar must comply with the following standards, depending on the subfloor used:

• Plywood: Polymer-modified thin-set mortar to ANSI A118.11 standard
• Concrete: Polymer-modified thin-set mortar to ANSI A118.11 standard
• Gypsum underlayment: Unmodified thin-set mortar to ANSI A118.1 standard
• Existing vinyl tiles: Fast-setting polymer-modified thin-set mortar to ANSI A118.4 or A118.15.

For recommendation about other subfloors, contact Customer Service.

Tiles can be bonded to an uncoupling membrane using either AINSI A118.11 polymer-modified thin-set mortar or ANSI A118.1 non-polymer-modified thin-set mortar.  Please check with the manufacturer for their recommendation.

Check that the circuit breaker on the electrical panel supplying the thermostat is switched on.

Check that the supply wires are connected to terminals L1 and L2(N).

Replace the thermostat if it is powered and the wires are connected to the correct terminals.

Yes. To switch from programmable mode to manual mode, simply make the change in the True Comfort app.

Press the “reset” button on the side of the thermostat for a few seconds until the thermostat starts up again. If the situation persists, contact a qualified electrician to check the heating cable’s insulation resistance, the presence of a possible electric arc between the thermostat terminals and the electrical box, the possibility of damaged wires or interference caused by electrical pollution.

Contact Customer Service for assistance.

The simplest option is to call us to troubleshoot the issue based on the symptoms.

But first, here are a few ideas:

Does GFCI appear on the thermostat screen and/or the reset button light up red? If so, press the reset button. If the problem persists, contact an electrician to test the heating cable’s insulation resistance.

Check that the upper floor or air temperature limit is at an appropriate level.

If your thermostat is in programmable mode, check that the operating program is appropriate.

Reset the thermostat to factory settings. Select manual mode on the thermostat and turn the temperature up to maximum. Wait 24 hours. If the floor heats up, the problem is probably in the settings you’ve customized.

Is the floor temperature sensor correctly located? Is the floor sensor being influenced by an external factor such as a carpet covering, the sun or another heating appliance (ducts under the floor)?

Don’t hesitate to give us a call, we’re here to help: Customer Service.

E1F: Floor temperature sensor not connected or broken.

E12: The Wi-Fi programmable thermostat cannot connect to the Wi-Fi network:

1. Turn off the circuit breakers for 30 seconds and then turn them back on.
2. If the problem persists, change to another working thermostat to determine whether the cause lies with the installation or the thermostat.

E16: Potentially faulty internal electronic component: Turn off the circuit breaker at the electrical panel for 30 seconds, then turn it back on. If the error persists, replace the thermostat.

E17: GFCI self-test failed: Turn off the circuit breaker at the electrical panel for 30 seconds, then turn it back on. If the error persists, replace the thermostat.

GFCI: Press the “reset” button on the side of the thermostat for a few seconds until the thermostat start up again. If the situation persists, contact a qualified electrician to check the insulation resistance of the heating cable, the presence of a possible electric arc between the thermostat terminals and the electrical box, the possibility of damaged wires or interference caused by electrical pollution.

Contact Customer Service for assistance.

The thermostat always retains its programming. You’ll need to adjust the date and time after a power failure that lasts more than two hours.

Download the free True Comfort app to your mobile device from the App Store or Google Play.

Open the app and log in to your True Comfort account or create an account.

In the menu on the right, choose “Add a device” and follow the on-screen instructions.

1. Press the UP button on the thermostat until the software appears on the screen.
2. Press the UP and DOWN buttons simultaneously until the screen goes completely blank or CLR appears on the screen.
3. Press the UP button to make YES appear.
4. Press and release the UP and DOWN buttons at the same time. DONE will appear and the thermostat should light up again.
5. When the screen lights up again, remove the thermostat’s front panel for 30 seconds and replace it.

In the case of tiled floor covering, a temperature sensor can be installed in the grout joint between two tiles.
In all other cases, contact Customer Service for assistance.